- MAINTAINING STEEL

Any heat treatable stainless steel will rust, it's just a matter of how much exposure the given alloy will take before it does. Carbon steels and tools are much more susceptible to oxidation than the stainless varieties, however with proper maintenance even the most rust prone carbon steel will last indefinitely.

Stainless means just that; stain - less, not stain - proof. This is usually more of a problem with bead blasted stainless blades than with the polished ones as bead blasting opens up the surface of the steel and creates microscopic craters that tend to hold dirt, salt, moisture, sweat, etc. If a blade is left in this condition it will stain, but shouldn't pit. Scrubbing the stains with Break-Free should clean them up, and periodic treatments with Sentry Solutions Tuf-Cloth should solve most staining problems that you may encounter in the future. If staining is a serious concern or if the blade is to be used continuously in a marine atmosphere, I would recommend a Talonite or Stellite blade.

For carbon steels, as well as Damascus, I recommend regular cleaning with a soft cloth, and periodic treatments with Renaissance Wax. Tuf-Cloth also works well to minimize any chance of corrosion. The general rule here is to keep your steel clean and lightly coated with any quality lightweight oil or preservative wax.

Please Note: Not all finishes or exotic materials will respond well to the same cleaning agents, so do a little research or follow the makers advice.

- MAINTAINING FOLDERS

Disassembly is not necessary for general maintenance, and is not recommended in any case. Although the customer can disassemble their folder should it become encrusted with dirt, sand, etc., this act can void our guarantee. I have designed my tac/utility folders with the open back feature to be easy to clean and maintain. Simply rinse the knife thoroughly in clean, fresh water after exposure to organic fluids, chemicals or marine environments and dry it out completely (compressed air works well). You can lubricate the pivot area with any quality lightweight oil such as Break Free or White Lightning. You should also protect the blade with a light coat of oil or Tuf-Cloth to prevent staining.

My presentation grade or sculptural art folders with the enclosed spine construction should only need to have the interior cleaned in the unlikely event that fluid is spilled into them. If this does happen, you can contact me and I will disassemble and thoroughly clean the knife asap. The exterior of the presentation grade folder should be cared for depending on the materials used. The Damascus should be kept clean and lightly oiled or waxed with Renaissance Wax. Generally, the handle materials I use on these folders respond well to a soft jeweler's cloth and Renaissance Wax.

- MAINTAINING FIXED BLADES

Pretty much the same as the folders, except there are no moving parts to lubricate and care for. If your blade is a carbon, tool steel, or Damascus you should give it regular attention to ensure that no rust takes hold. Sheathing or storing the blade when it is stained with blood, fish scales, etc will degrade the steel fast, leaving even a stainless blade pitted and dull. So clean and dry them thoroughly after use.

- MAINTAINING YOUR EDGE

Generally, I recommend the novice sharpener read anything he/she can on the various techniques for maintaining a keen edge. A quality sharpening system will do the trick. We use a Tormek system for power-assisted sharpening here in the shop, it utilizes a slow speed 800 grit waterstone and soft leather strop to produce a wicked edge. My preference leans towards a Japanese waterstone for most bench sharpening and any quality lightweight ceramic or diamond sharpener for edge maintenance in the field or on the trail. Practice really does pay, and those kitchen knives make great practice.